Hyderabad is one of the few cities in India that not only boasts a rich history but also pulls off the metropolitan vibe with ease. In this city, you can find an enchanting blend of the old and the new, often coexisting side by side.
One moment, you are standing in the shadow of the Qutb Shahi Tombs, marveling at the architecture that tells stories of the city’s royal past. A few kilometers away, you will find yourself in HITEC City, filled with sleek glass buildings housing global tech giants, speaking volumes about Hyderabad’s role as an IT hub.
Indeed, Hyderabad thrives on contrasts and nowhere is this duality more evident than in its cafe culture. In this city, you will find Irani cafes serving traditional chai as well as modern, aesthetic spaces offering gourmet coffee. While worlds apart, both proudly bear the same name: “cafe”.
The timeless tradition of Irani chai
“Sabse zyaada chai pasand karte log mere cafe main,” says Mir Gaffar Ali, second-generation owner of Ali Cafe.
Situated in Dabeerpura, Ali Cafe perfectly embodies the quintessential charm of Hyderabad’s Irani cafes. As you step inside you are greeted with the unapologetically traditional decor- simple wooden tables and chairs, glass jars filled with Osmania biscuits on the counter, and tiled walls that carry the weight of stories shared over decades.
Established in 1964, Ali Cafe has played a huge role in forming a community in the Dabeerpura area. “Mere walid Mir Dawood Ali yeh cafe start kare the. Ever since the start we have been catering to the people in this area for every occasion of their life. From wedding catering to simple evening gatherings, Ali Cafe has always been a go-to place for people,” he said.
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The cafe serves as more than just a place for food and tea, it serves as a delightful nod to the city’s culinary heritage with only Hyderabadi staples included in the menu. Items like Biryani, Haleem, Luqmi, and Malai Bun which are deeply embedded in the food culture of the city, are a crowd favorite.
However, despite being a hub for the local community, Ali Cafe also reflects a longstanding reality of many Irani cafes: it remains a male-dominated space. Women, rarely, if ever, visit the establishment. “It is just how it is. This has been going on for decades now, men have always been our key customers and women don’t prefer coming here. Furthermore, it’s not only old men that are regulars but our majority customer base is aged 20-40,” Gaffar comments.
The absence of women is one of the defining characteristics of these Irani cafes, further emphasizing the traditional nature of these spaces- acting like a gathering point for men to relax and discuss every topic under the roof.
The new era of gourmet coffee
Circa 2014-15, Hyderabad saw a revolution in its cafe culture. The city witnessed a surge in ‘Instagrammable’ cafes that challenged the Hyderabadi definition of a ‘cafe’. Unlike their Irani counterparts, these new-age establishments prioritized experience.
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“40% of the success of a cafe depends upon its ambiance. Customers need to have a beautiful ambiance complete with an ‘Instagram wall’ where they can click aesthetic pictures. These new-age cafes, including ourselves, try to provide an escape from the hustle of life with peaceful vibes and greenery all around,” says Syed Mujtaba Ali, co-founder of L’affaire Cafe at Jubilee Hills. However, according to him, it is important to understand that the interiors can only attract the customer for their first visit, loyalty depends on the menu which is very coffee-focused.
Moreover, these new-age cafes truly shine by offering unique experiences. They not only serve as gathering spots, they double down as cultural and creative hubs. “Every week, we host a variety of events from open mic, poetry readings, and stand-up comedy shows to niche gatherings like book clubs, yoga sessions, and live music performances,” Mujtaba explains to Siasat.com.
In addition to this, the demographic of these new-age cafes is notably different. L’affaire’s majority customer base is women, a trend that’s a significant departure from the male-dominated Irani cafes. What’s more, the women who frequent these spaces aren’t just young girls but women of all ages. Middle-aged women, too, find comfort in L’affaire, often hosting kitty parties and gatherings in the serene ambiance.
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The future of Hyderabad’s cafe culture
As Hyderabad’s cafe culture continues to evolve, there is an ongoing dialogue about what lies ahead.
For owners like Gaffar Ali, the future of his cafe seems steady but it also comes with challenges. He admits that there is some pressure to modernize and upgrade his establishment. However, limited resources and a strong customer base that still appreciates the traditional setting make him hesitant to make drastic changes. The life of Irani cafes seems secure, as they remain an integral part of Hyderabad’s culture.
On the other hand, Syed Mujtaba Ali embraces the new wave of change and believes that Hyderabad’s cafe culture will continue to evolve. While he acknowledges that the love for chai will always be integral to Hyderabad’s identity, he also highlights the enduring popularity of Instagrammable cafes, especially in the age of social media.
“All I wish is to celebrate the co-existence of both cafes with a special Osmania biscuit espresso,” he says with a laugh.
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